October 20, 2026

Geruhage 2026 tour day 3: old school Canto

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DaRC and I are rolling out the red carpet for Geruhage and the visitors, so the itinerary naturally includes a dinner at the private kitchen. Given the experience from last night, I foresaw that some of the dishes tonight would be challenging for the visitors. But no worry, it means more for the rest of us!

Deep-fried sea urchin custard (海膽戈渣) - this is definitely something new for the visitors, and something so few chefs are still doing.

October 19, 2026

Geruhage 2026 tour day 2: the trouble with texture

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When there are visiting tourists in town, it’s not surprising to find a request for a table at The Chairman (大班樓). Geruhage has planned this trip for a whole year (!) and the main purpose is to show a few of them Canadians around town. Well, they’re finally here…

Given that the visitors had only just arrived this morning and probably had not adjusted to their new timezone well, I decided not to go crazy with the menu like some people I know. I made the executive decision on the choice of dishes, thinking that this would be a good introduction to the restaurant's repertoire. I just added one extra starter on top of the “usual” set, although I did make it a point to pick some things that I knew Geruhage would enjoy.

I arrived early, and ran into someone who very kindly offered me a glass of what they were enjoying:

2018 Frédéric Cossard Bigotes - lots of flint and very reductive on the nose. Funnily enough the nose smelled very strongly of wampee to me, and at this age it's more oxidized.

Ginger and vinegar pig trotter terrine (甜醋子薑豬手豬耳凍) – one of my favorite creations from the kitchen in the last few years, as they transformed the classic Cantonese dish of 豬腳薑, traditionally eaten by postpartum mothers during the first month to regain their strength. Tonight the terrine made with finely diced trotter meat and black vinegar jelly was a little more firm than usual. The garnish of finely diced young ginger pickled in-house with kaffir lime leaves put the finishing touches to the dish.

October 18, 2026

Geruhage 2026 tour day 1: Occupy Amber with gold

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One of the items on Geruhage's agenda this trip was to check off a three-star, as he does. Amber received a long-awaited third macaron after my friend was last in town, so I made arrangements for a visit. After all, we had skipped our annual vegetarian meal there this year, and I definitely needed to make it up to Richard, Terry, and the team.

This time around, we're finally not taking the vegetarian menu... for the first time in 3 years. OF COURSE Geruhage would want the Full Amber Experience, so we all went along.

Our dinner started with some seasonal amuse bouche:

We had some kombucha made with different green apples, which was very nice and fruity... and reminded me of passionfruit with the floral notes. This was actually more on the sweet side, and not acidic or yucky like some kombucha can be. There was a little bit of acidity at the end, but that's OK.

Geruhage 2026 tour day 1: white wines with dim sum

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A few hours after sipping on some wines together into the wee hours at our place, I'm meeting up with Geruhage and Tomo-chan for lunch. DaRC had kind of overruled our friend's original wish to try dim sum at a place he hadn't visited before, and the bunch of us ended up at Forum Restaurant (富臨飯店). One could never go wrong here, and I jokingly reminded Geruhage before coming here that we should pre-order the fish maw... which used to be priced at around HKD 30,000 but is now listed as "market price"...

DaRC comes here much more often than I do, so we are guaranteed to have a wonderful experience when we're with him. I left the ordering up to the expert.

Forum steamed premium shrimp dumpling with pork (富臨蝦餃皇) - they do this classic so, so well here. Very plump and full of flavor.

October 15, 2026

3-star lab rat

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It has been a long, loooong time since I had the opportunity to open a couple of bottles with the Hairy Chevalier. In fact, I've been trying to do that for most of this year without success... Well, he finally called me over tonight to Caprice Bar, with the aim of testing out a few dishes for the upcoming special game menu. So I brought along a bottle I've been meaning to drink with him for MONTHS, as well as a bottle I thought would go well with game.

1981 Taittinger Comte de Champagne Blanc de Blancs - the nose was really mature and lovely, with marmalade of course, but perhaps also a little apricot. Nice and soft on the palate now after 45 years, but certainly not weak or short. In fact, this had great acidity and very, very long on the finish. Fantastic.

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