Hello Kitty and I have been cooped up at home for a while, and at times she's had to cook two meals while being busy working during the day, so I wasn't surprised when she requested that we dine out somewhere nice tonight. The question as always is: which restaurant should we support? Beyond supporting chefs who are friends, we also want to make sure we prioritize smaller, independent establishments without the resources of larger restaurant groups.
When I had dinner at
Godenya (ごでんや) last month, I asked Goshima-
san about
sansho flowers (花山椒), that magical, ephemeral ingredient sought-after every spring in Japan. It wasn't in season then, but Goshima-
san promised to let us know when they were able to bring it in. Well, their arrival was announced last week, and I've been looking for an opportunity to come back while they are still available. Fortunately, there were still two seats available for tonight, so I booked them a few hours before dinner.
I was surprised that the restaurant was just about full - or at the highest capacity they can reach without breaching government regulations.
Kegani, glass shrimp, uni, kiyomi (毛蟹 白海老 雲丹 サマー清見 若芽) - nice to start with something fruity and refreshing. There was an interesting
mélange of textures, a nice range of flavors from the sweet and creamy sea urchin and glass shrimp, the creamy sea urchin sauce, the slightly more savory Japanese horsehair crab, the
umami of the wakame (若芽) chips, the acidity of the
gelée made from
dashi (出汁) and
yuzu vinegar (柚子ポン) as well as the citrus acidity. Goshima-
san always knows how to kick off a meal.
Iseno Shiroki Junmai Nama Sparkling (伊勢の白酒 純米生活性), 1BY - served at 10°C.
Seimaibuai (精米歩合) of 65%. Fruity nose, sweet and tropical on the palate, with some acidity to balance things. A little fizz on the tongue, easy to drink and a very happy sake to drink. Not a very serious sake, very casual, but makes me happy.