Lucky 14

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I haven't seen much of DaRC and Ro Ro this year due to their busy travel schedule, and as we met up for a casual dinner a few weeks ago, we realized there would be limited chances we could see each other for the rest of the year. So they very graciously added me to the guest list for tonight's dinner at my favorite private dining facility, and the group eventually grew to a party of 14.

Our host arranged the menu with Chef Tak, which are full of the classics that I have become familiar over the years. The highlight, though, would undoubtedly be the snake soup, which are only in season during this cooler part of the year. I was definitely very excited.

1996 Bruno Paillard Assemblage, dégorgée en Janvier 2006, en magnum - the acidity was quite nice on the palate. The wine was starting to show some maturity but still tasted youthful and lively. On the nose there was a little flint, a little sugar cane, and a hint of straw. Overall this was rather elegant.

Pan-fried medallions with birds' nest (琵琶燕窩盞) - this is a dish I've tasted numerous times, ever since my first visit here. I jokingly called them 'savory madeleines' because of the familiar shape.

Tonight, though, these babies were extra fluffy and moist, but not quite to the point of juicy. Perhaps the chef used a little less egg white tonight and more crab/birds' nest.

Sautéed shredded prawn with assorted vegetables (鳳城炒蝦絲) - another dish one doesn't see often. I should definitely order it more often.

The shrimp has such a stringy texture, or what the Chinese call 彈牙 - literally meaning it bounces off one's teeth. The olive kernels have been nicely toasted in the wok and are now so fragrant.

Krug Grande Cuvée, 2nd generation, en magnum - this was REALLY fragrant, with marmalade and especially aged lemon peel with that savory profile on the palate. Just absolutely beautiful. My wine of the night.

Stir-fried soft-shell turtle shell (鳳城炒水魚裙) - besides the shredded skirt of the soft-shell turtle, we've got pickles, bean sprouts, spring onions, chilis, and more of those toasty olive kernels. This was definitely on the "wet" side as the veggies began to "sweat", but I didn't mind the sweetish sauce.

2019 Dauvissat Chablis - this was actually pretty buttery on the nose, much to my surprise. Thankfully still got the acidity I want from a Chablis.

Deep-fried crab claws (椒鹽肉蟹鉗) - always happy to see a plate full of these big crab claws.

Tonight these fried claws came out piping hot, which was absolutely perfect. The salt on the outside really brought out the sweetness of the crab meat Really amazing execution tonight.

2009 Darviot-Perrin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Blanchots Dessus - this was definitely more buttery and toasty on the nose.

When the service staff starts to bring out these condiments, we all know what comes next!

Imperial scholar's five-snake soup (太史五蛇羹) - OH YES! It's been too long! How I've missed this!

How happy were we?! The flavors of the soup were heavier tonight than usual, but I wasn't complaining. This was still the finest version of the snake soup for me... although I kept to just one bowl so that others could get their refill.

There were a choice of two aged Cognacs but somehow we were served small pours of the Remy Martin. I remembered years ago when DaRC taught us to pour some Cognac into our snake soup, so I dutifully did so tonight without looking at the nectar that I was nonchalantly using as a condiment. It was only after the dinner that I realized how much this bottle cost... And suddenly I am reminded of this experience at Robuchon à Galera where Francky Semblat added Rémy Martin Louis XIII to the caramel sauce that was served with my coffee... I think that's about the same level of extravagance...

Rémy Martin 250th Anniversary - lovely vanilla and caramel.

Steamed humpback grouper (清蒸海老鼠斑) - this was a big one tonight, but it would have to be for a table of 14. So well done, and I was happy to have gotten one of the fins.

2012 Sine Qua Non In the Abstract - wow! This was soooo fragrant. A little bit of flint, sweet vanilla, toasty popcorn, sooo buttery! So beautiful this was fucking good!

Tea-smoked chicken (茶皇烟燻雞) - methinks the execution on this was a little off tonight, just by looking at the chicken skin. The smoky flavors were still there, and the meat still tender.

1987 DRC La Tâche - a little floral on the nose but this was very subtle. Also showing tea leaves with a little bit of savory notes, leather, and animal. Pretty fragrant after a few minutes.

2006 Cassanova di Neri Cerretalto - very minty and plenty of eucalyptus, also earthy. Drinking very well.

Stir-fried pea shoots with crab roe (蟹黃扒豆苗) - yes, we are in prime season for crab roe, and this always works very well with the tender pea shoots. However, RAW Yeah and I both hanker for the pea shoots to be drenched in a sauce made of shredded Cantonese preserved liver sausage (潤腸)...

Tien Heung Lau Huadiao (天香樓花雕) - this was the 'syrup' that's been aging for a long time, and the viscosity really shows. Very savory, soooo fragrant, and so rich. Not too sweet on the palate at all.

Sautéed rice rolls with minced beef, bean sprouts in satay sauce (沙爹牛肉炒腸粉) - always happy to taste the punchy flavors of the "satay beef", but my preference would have been for another seasonal carb dish. Still, one should count one's blessings and be glad that one is even present at the table set in someone else's honor.

2018 Fingers Crossed Grenache Off the Record - this was opened almost 9 hours before serving. Nose was really metallic, with lots of sweet fruit, tons of oak, and lots of eucalyptus. Very young but lovely.

Red bean purée with aged mandarin peel (陳皮紅豆沙) - I always love how rich this adzuki bean soup is, and with that wonderful fragrance of the aged tangerine peel. The lotus seeds help to add texture and also lighten up the flavors.

1990 Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle - I drank this nearly 2½ hours after opening. Nose was showing a hint of straw. On the palate we've got good acidity along with some ripeness, good maturity now thanks to aging.

What a wonderful evening! How lucky was I to be seated at this table, where the dishes tonight were among the best I've tasted coming out of this kitchen. The wines went very well with the dishes, too. So grateful for the company and cherish my time with friends, just days before the American Thanksgiving which I no longer celebrate. But tonight, I am thankful, indeed!